Chapter 2
Houseboat on Dal Lake
7 min read · 5 pages
The aerial view of Srinagar was quite different from the one that greeted my eyes as we climbed out of the plane. Both were beautiful, but in different ways. It also became instantly clear that Srinagar was not like Darjeeling, Simla, or even Kathmandu, which I had seen before. When I saw the lake and the river Jhelum on our way to the city, I realized just how unique Srinagar was, both in its location and appearance. Our destination was the Boulevard, the road which ran by the southern side of Dal Lake. Small steps went down to the water, where little boats called shikaras were waiting to take passengers. Just as Venice has its gondolas, Srinagar is famous for its shikaras. Our houseboat was called The Water Lily. A special shikara was waiting to take us to it. We climbed into it, taking our luggage with us. Several houseboats stood in a row, at a distance of fifty yards. Then the lake became much wider and I couldn’t see any more houseboats. They were all parked on the western side of the lake. It was not difficult at all to climb up to the boat from the shikara. There was an open area in front of the rooms. One could sit there, or take the stairs that went up to the upper deck for a better view of the surroundings. The first room as we entered the boat was the living room. It was well furnished with flowers in a vase, paintings on the wall and a small library. Behind this was the dining room, two bedrooms and a bathroom. The kitchen was in a smaller boat, attached to the rear. In short, it provided every comfort on the lake that one might find in a private bungalow in town. ‘You have to thank me for this!’ Lalmohan Babu declared, grinning broadly. ‘It was really my idea to come here, wasn’t it?’ ‘Sure. You are a writer, Lalmohan Babu. All good ideas ought to come from you. Anyway, let’s have a cup of tea and then go for a ride in our shikara.’ There were two bearers in the houseboat to look after us. They were called Mahmudia and Abdullah. By the time we finished our tea and got into the shikara, the sun was about to set. Although it was May, it was quite cool. We had to wear our warm clothes when we went out. Feluda said, ‘I don’t think we’ll have time for anything but a tour of the lake. We’ll start our sightseeing from tomorrow. See that hill behind the Boulevard? Its height is 1000 feet. There’s a temple at its top—the temple of Shankaracharya. It is said to have been built by Emperor Ashok’s son. To the east of the lake are the Mughal gardens. We must see Nishad Bagh, Shalimar and Chashma Shahi. I believe there’s a spring in Chashma Shahi. Its water is supposed to be like nectar, both in taste and
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